Now you want to try some training. Unless your pet has a really solid come and stay command, it is essential that you put a leash on for training. Even if your pet doesn't run away you need to be able to lead them in the direction needed for certain behaviors.
Beginner marks are easy. My favorite is a book that I cover in duct tape of nay color. I often use green or brown so I can use it in tall grass or leaves if needed on set sometimes. Low apple crates used commonly on set in multiple studio situations are used by professionals. But these are pricey. books work just as well. Then as you progress you can get a smaller and thinner book. The first mark needs to be big enough and thick enough that your pet can get their front feet on it comfortably and sit down or lay down while their feet remain in place. Some other worthwhile marks are card board coasters from bars or restaurants. Mouse pads work well too and you can cut them down to size as the pet progresses. Anything that slides when your pet steps on it is a horrible choice and will just discourage it from that behavior. Blocks of wood, bricks, etc are all good options to start with.
Another helpful tool is a target stick. They can be elaborate or not. I use a wooden dowel about 4 feet long but 6 foot is really the minimum you should use especially with a larger dog. A dental chew slides over one end with a finishing nail in the end to hold the treat for paying. A tennis ball is placed on the other end for following with just her eyes or her whole body. The target stick is also used to encourage jumping straight up or for teaching your pet to sit up from a distance. I have seen retractable target sticks on line or in some pet shops. The problem I found with these is they are rarely long enough or stable enough when fully extended. PVC pipe is commonly used with a fork or spork attached to one end and a hole cut in a tennis ball for the other end. I have seen a home made telescoping pvc pipe target stick made by using a smaller size that fits inside.
A long lead is essential when teaching distance and pace. But if you are working with a reptile or small pet, the standard long leads are often too big and heavy. Laundry cord or small cord rope works well with a clip attached. I have had to resort to 20lb fishing line for one shoot with some not so well trained animals.
Training treats need to be soft and easily eaten. No director wants crumbs or chewing on set. And dog food or standard dog or cat treats are often not enough motivation to get your pet to perform for several hours on set Plus they can be very filling and fattening when giving many during one session. One of my favorites is the natural balance logs cut into very small bites. I can give two if I want a big reward and it is essentially dog food that taste like sausage. Cheese, chicken, hot dogs, and such have all been resorted to at times. I once brought cooked salmon to use as a special pay treat. But by the end of the day Petal smelled like a dead fish and no one wanted to be around her. I also keep a jar of peanut butter and chicken baby food for the times I need to have a pet lick on something for a while.
So now that you have some helpful hints, let the training begin. And remember that it is important that both you and your dog are enjoying yourselves. If not, give up the acting ideal and try another dog sport or activity.
Part V: Not Every Pet is Going to be a Great Animal Actor.
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