Twas the morning of Christmas and all through the house,
The dogs were all stirring, but thankfully no mouse.
The stockings were hung high up on top,
Cuz stealing them down no dogs could stop.
While visions of rawhide danced in their heads,
The Dogs were all nestled all snug in dog beds.
And me in my jammies, with a night cap of Nog
All settled in too and feeling a grog.
When out in the kitchen there rose such a clatter,
So I sprang to my feet to see what the matter.
When what to my eyes did appear,
A platter of cookies made like reindeer.
More rapid than eagles my curses they came,
As I whistled and shouted and call them by name.
Now Gussy, Now Petal, Now Turf, Bad Dogs!,
They were eating the cookies and drinking the nog.
On Comet, on Windex, and rolled paper towels,
I cleaned up the mess with words with few vowels.
And leaves that before the wild hurricane fly,
When met with an obstacle, the dogs they did fly.
As I draw in my head and was turning around,
Down the back steps the dogs they did bound.
They were covered in nog, on their heads to their paws,
And all I could see were the mutts with a cause.
Their eyes how they twinkled, their tongues were of cherry,
Their fur how it sparkled, their tails wagged so merry.
The stump of reindeer cookies hung from their teeth,
Red and Green frosting around their nose like a wreath.
They had cute little faces and a very full belly,
That shook as they ran like a bowl full of Jelly.
They were chubby and plump, and dressed as an elf,
And I had to laugh when I saw them in spite of myself.
A wag of the tail and a tilt of the head,
Soon gave me to know I had all but to dread.
They spoke not a word but went straight to work,
Licking their paws, the cute little jerks.
And settling a hand to pet each ones nose,
And giving a nod their tails again rose.
They sprang to their beds, where quietly they lay,
Happy Christmas to all, And to all a Good Day!
Petal the Dog
Do you know all your pet's needs?
Thursday, December 25, 2014
Tuesday, October 21, 2014
Hallowen Haunts your Dog!
The ghost and goblins will soon be approaching.
Are you ready for Halloween? You have your decorations, the pumpkin is ready
for carving, the candy is bought, and the costumes are in the making. But are
you prepared for any unseen emergencies and most likely the stress that
Halloween causes your dog?
Those cute blinking skull lights that make
ghoulish sounds may be terrorizing your dog if they are not used to them being
there all year round. And the pumpkin or
skull that sounds out each time someone passes by especially your dog is a
challenge on their nerves. The ghostly décor hanging from the trees too are a
fright. And if they get brave enough to tear them down out of their need to
protect you, could mean a trip to the pet ER.
Eating a whole pumpkin isn’t going to be toxic
but the results can still make for a very upset tummy and the need for lots of
spot cleaner and some medicine to stop at least the diarrhea if not some vomiting.
I would hope that by now everyone has switched from candles to tea lights to
light the jack-o-lantern face for fear of fire hazards. But still that lighted
face can either be tempting or terrorizing to your dog.
The candy is a big problem. Keep it up high.
Dogs are tricky when it comes to stealing treats and if they get enough
chocolate it is toxic causing seizures and possibly death. The toxic amount of
chocolate is about ½oz per pound of body weight. That means a 5lb dog would
have to eat 2 ounces of chocolate. That is about 12 Hershey Kisses. The
filling, nuts, and nougat don’t count but it will still upset their stomachs
and can cause some vomiting and diarrhea. So if they sneak a fun size bar or
two you are okay. But if they devour the whole bowl you are in trouble. Or at
least your dog is. Most of the time, the wrappers will pass leaving you with a
decorative mess to clean up. Dark chocolate is not more toxic than milk. But if
you are giving out the high cacao chocolate the problem doubles and often
triples in intensity. But not many households are giving this out for Halloween. Raisins are often given out as a healthy
alternative. Only a small amount of raisins are toxic to the kidneys of your
dog. Sugar filled candy in general can
be problematic too. It will lead to hyperactivity, excess water drinking, and
some short term body function issues. So keep that bowl up high and in sight at
all times.
Now more than ever, it is popular to dress up
your pets for Halloween. Some pet costumes are more elaborate than the kid’s.
This is adorable with Facebook and the internets flooded with all the pictures,
but keep your pet’s comfort in mind. If your pet isn’t used to wearing a
costume it can be pretty daunting. Try a sweater or T-shirt first and warm them
up to the idea before spending on that exotic spider costume with legs dangling
all around it and freaking your pet out. Even if your pet is comfortable with
the attention, are they comfortable with the actual costume? Do the legs of
that spider swing and hit them each time they move? Does the elastic get tight
and is it causing swelling of the feet or legs or is it choking around the neck
or holding too tight around the head causing a head ache? Does the hood or hat
fall down in front of the eyes, making it difficult for them to see? Is it
difficult to walk in or move in and is the costume heavy and tiresome after a
short time? Most dogs will suffer through it for your love and attention, but
should they have to?
Now comes all the trick-or-treaters. Kids of
all ages with their parents are at your door. The costumes are precious to you
but at least nerve racking if not frightening to your dog. The samurais are
waving swords, the Jedi’s have lighted sabers, and even the princesses have
wands. Some are wearing masks or hats that hide their
faces so your dog can not figure out who they are or even if they are children
for that matter. They are yelling, ringing the doorbell, and knocking one after
another. Your dog probably isn’t happy to see all those people.
Normally they are good dogs and they stay when
you open the door and come when called. But tonight are not in their natural
environment so they aren’t going to behave as they naturally do. You open the
door for trick-or-treaters once, twice, maybe even 10 to 20 times. But then
your dog sees an opportunity and bolts right past your or between your legs
splitting the group of children on your porch. Are they following all the kids
with candy or trying to escape them? Either way they are not paying attention
to you and are now on the loose. Even if
they are not frightened out of their gourds, they are overstimulated and very
excited. Just like kids, they can behave badly or act in a way that puts them
in danger.
Best case scenario is your husband, wife, roommate,
partner or whoever continues to hand out candy while you try to control the
situation. Worse is that you are in the pet emergency room waiting for your dog
to vomit up the 20 or more chocolate bars it ate or the results of x-rays
because a car didn’t see your pet when running away in the dark of night.
Now I am not suggesting you turn off your
lights and forego Halloween. Just see it through your pet’s eyes and mind and
take proper precautions. Put your dog in a crate and have some dog treats nearby
that you can hand to it every time it doesn’t bark at the trick-or-treaters or
to distract it when it starts to look a little shaky. The when it is all over, you can have some
left over candy and they some more dog treats and rest up until Turkey Day when
the next not so dog friendly holiday occurs.
Sunday, October 12, 2014
The Cost of Veterinary Care & Getting What You Pay For
Getting what you pay for in Veterinary care is not always a deal. But you can prevent being ripped off or not getting the best bang for your buck.
I've been working in the veterinary field a long time and I have seen all kinds of veterinarians. I have worked for private practices as well as corporations and I have seen good and bad veterinarians at both. Let's make one thing clear. All veterinarians and veterinary staff love animals. That's why they are in this field. None chose this profession for the money, but admittedly some have discovered or invented ways to make it the most profitable. Just because your veterinarian seems to be more than reasonably priced does not mean you are not being over charged.
Case scenario: Your dog breaks it's leg. It either fell or got tangled up with something or worse case was hit by a car but there are no internal issues at least that are visible with the naked eye but it's leg is broken. You take it to your veterinarian and they give you and estimate for $1200. Wow! that's a lot of money. Not really, a 24 hour critical care specialty facility would give you and estimate of $5000 or more. Your friend call to tell you she knows a veterinarian that will do it for $600. Now you need to decide which is the best deal. Believe it or not the $5000 estimate is probably the best deal. More likely it is a complete estimate and includes all necessary days of hospitalization, medication to go with and more times than not some routine follow up care. And although no medicine is 100% guaranteed, they are more likely to do the best procedure possible and stand behind there work. The critical care specialty hospital is also going to have critical care nurses. These nurses or veterinary technicians have a degree and a license similar to an RN in human medicine. A lot of RVTs(registered veterinary technician) have special interests in study. The critical care specialty facility has the latest a greatest equipment to monitor your pet before, during, and after surgery. They can offer the best medicine possible. The estimate is high because the overhead is also high. The profit margin is actually not as high as you would think.
The estimate for $600 most certainly does not include a board certified orthopedic specialist nor RVTs who put in hours of continued education annually(usually unpaid) to keep their license current. The best anesthetic techniques and monitors are not used or available and even their standards of disinfecting and sterile techniques are low if not poor. The risk of something going wrong is much higher. But the thing that really gets my goat is the profit margin for these low cost procedures is often very high. They did not spend the money so they make more money. And when something goes wrong they are more likely to blame it on the pet or even and act of God. I have seen routine procedures go wrong and then the veterinarian will label the pet with a condition to have caused the problem when really it was lack of safe anesthesia protocols and well trained RVTs or veterinary nurses who can recognize and correct a situation prior to it becoming a crisis. Not to mention cheap low quality medicine used. No diagnostics were done to discover the pet had a problem prior and no diagnostics were done to confirm a disease or condition related issue post. Because that lower the profit margin . But wouldn't you have rather paid extra to make sure your pet was safe? Probably so if it was explain correctly to you.
I can do a cat spay rather cheaply with non-sterile instruments and archaic anesthesia protocols on a table in a room cleaned with Windex from Costco and 90% of them will turn out fine. But 10% will be drastic failures. But if my profit margin is 100% then I still make a lot of money. I can even "cut you a break" and you think I am wonderful. But I am still making 90% profit and sometimes if I cut corners even more I can make up that lost profit on yours or another clients pet.
Now don't be confused. I am not charging you for things I haven't done. I am doing things as cheaply as possible so it doesn't cost me as much to do it. Nor am I paying staff much above minimum wage and if I maintain less than 8 staff members I do not have to abide by most employee regulations. This saves me even more money and maintaining that higher profit margin. But if I have to buy updated equipment, pay an RVT, and use proper sterilization and sanitation techniques, then I not only have to charge you more, I also make less profit. Now are you getting the picture?
Now realistically, the $1200 estimate is probably the best "bang for your buck". They are using proper techniques, good monitoring practices, have qualified RVTs or at least well experienced and trained veterinary nurses, and most likely will have a successful outcome. They aren't going to be as prepared or have the most expensive equipment if things star going seriously wrong, but they will be able to handle most situations. The reality is every business has to be profitable, but they are not making a large profit based on your estimate and the care they provide. Their profit margin is probably in the 25% range. A lot lower than 90% to 100% and the quality of medicine and care is probably 80% to 90% better. No care is 100%. People are fallible and as the saying goes, "shit happens" no matter where or who and what expensive equipment is available.
The $5000, as said previously, is probably more complete. Plus if you are at a specialty critical care facility it is probably because your pet needs specialized care with an orthopedic specialist with the most recent techniques and equipment. Even if you pet is not critical, they have it available and it is part of the overhead. They won't charge you for what they don't do or use, but their higher price is based on monthly cost to maintain a high quality staff & keep up to date equipment and medicine.
So when I see a veterinarian like Dr. Pol who if giving low quality medicine and making a huge profit it make me cringe. And let's be honest; it's the value of the available medicine not the cost that you should be looking for when it comes to your pet. Pick a veterinarian with values that meet yours. Be prepared by having pet insurance and a pet emergency credit card or savings plan so you can afford the cost of quality veterinary medicine and not rely on the cheapest estimate. It means better pet care for your furry loved one.
I've been working in the veterinary field a long time and I have seen all kinds of veterinarians. I have worked for private practices as well as corporations and I have seen good and bad veterinarians at both. Let's make one thing clear. All veterinarians and veterinary staff love animals. That's why they are in this field. None chose this profession for the money, but admittedly some have discovered or invented ways to make it the most profitable. Just because your veterinarian seems to be more than reasonably priced does not mean you are not being over charged.
Case scenario: Your dog breaks it's leg. It either fell or got tangled up with something or worse case was hit by a car but there are no internal issues at least that are visible with the naked eye but it's leg is broken. You take it to your veterinarian and they give you and estimate for $1200. Wow! that's a lot of money. Not really, a 24 hour critical care specialty facility would give you and estimate of $5000 or more. Your friend call to tell you she knows a veterinarian that will do it for $600. Now you need to decide which is the best deal. Believe it or not the $5000 estimate is probably the best deal. More likely it is a complete estimate and includes all necessary days of hospitalization, medication to go with and more times than not some routine follow up care. And although no medicine is 100% guaranteed, they are more likely to do the best procedure possible and stand behind there work. The critical care specialty hospital is also going to have critical care nurses. These nurses or veterinary technicians have a degree and a license similar to an RN in human medicine. A lot of RVTs(registered veterinary technician) have special interests in study. The critical care specialty facility has the latest a greatest equipment to monitor your pet before, during, and after surgery. They can offer the best medicine possible. The estimate is high because the overhead is also high. The profit margin is actually not as high as you would think.
The estimate for $600 most certainly does not include a board certified orthopedic specialist nor RVTs who put in hours of continued education annually(usually unpaid) to keep their license current. The best anesthetic techniques and monitors are not used or available and even their standards of disinfecting and sterile techniques are low if not poor. The risk of something going wrong is much higher. But the thing that really gets my goat is the profit margin for these low cost procedures is often very high. They did not spend the money so they make more money. And when something goes wrong they are more likely to blame it on the pet or even and act of God. I have seen routine procedures go wrong and then the veterinarian will label the pet with a condition to have caused the problem when really it was lack of safe anesthesia protocols and well trained RVTs or veterinary nurses who can recognize and correct a situation prior to it becoming a crisis. Not to mention cheap low quality medicine used. No diagnostics were done to discover the pet had a problem prior and no diagnostics were done to confirm a disease or condition related issue post. Because that lower the profit margin . But wouldn't you have rather paid extra to make sure your pet was safe? Probably so if it was explain correctly to you.
I can do a cat spay rather cheaply with non-sterile instruments and archaic anesthesia protocols on a table in a room cleaned with Windex from Costco and 90% of them will turn out fine. But 10% will be drastic failures. But if my profit margin is 100% then I still make a lot of money. I can even "cut you a break" and you think I am wonderful. But I am still making 90% profit and sometimes if I cut corners even more I can make up that lost profit on yours or another clients pet.
Now don't be confused. I am not charging you for things I haven't done. I am doing things as cheaply as possible so it doesn't cost me as much to do it. Nor am I paying staff much above minimum wage and if I maintain less than 8 staff members I do not have to abide by most employee regulations. This saves me even more money and maintaining that higher profit margin. But if I have to buy updated equipment, pay an RVT, and use proper sterilization and sanitation techniques, then I not only have to charge you more, I also make less profit. Now are you getting the picture?
Now realistically, the $1200 estimate is probably the best "bang for your buck". They are using proper techniques, good monitoring practices, have qualified RVTs or at least well experienced and trained veterinary nurses, and most likely will have a successful outcome. They aren't going to be as prepared or have the most expensive equipment if things star going seriously wrong, but they will be able to handle most situations. The reality is every business has to be profitable, but they are not making a large profit based on your estimate and the care they provide. Their profit margin is probably in the 25% range. A lot lower than 90% to 100% and the quality of medicine and care is probably 80% to 90% better. No care is 100%. People are fallible and as the saying goes, "shit happens" no matter where or who and what expensive equipment is available.
The $5000, as said previously, is probably more complete. Plus if you are at a specialty critical care facility it is probably because your pet needs specialized care with an orthopedic specialist with the most recent techniques and equipment. Even if you pet is not critical, they have it available and it is part of the overhead. They won't charge you for what they don't do or use, but their higher price is based on monthly cost to maintain a high quality staff & keep up to date equipment and medicine.
So when I see a veterinarian like Dr. Pol who if giving low quality medicine and making a huge profit it make me cringe. And let's be honest; it's the value of the available medicine not the cost that you should be looking for when it comes to your pet. Pick a veterinarian with values that meet yours. Be prepared by having pet insurance and a pet emergency credit card or savings plan so you can afford the cost of quality veterinary medicine and not rely on the cheapest estimate. It means better pet care for your furry loved one.
Things I Learned as a Studio Trainer Part VII: The Bond it Requires
It is not enough that you can teach your dog and it is willing to do it; you must have that special bond with your pet. You pet has to love and trust you more than anything in the world.
A good example I use is that your pet has to be willing to lay on its back, relaxed, while you hold it or massage it on the floor. That position is considered total submission. Your pet is submitting to you. And if it is relaxed while you do it, it is leaving itself vulnerable but trusting that you would not let anything bad happen. Because lying on their back they are in no position to defend themselves or to be able to quickly retreat. This sometimes takes some bonding sessions and sometimes it happens naturally. If it requires some sessions, GO SLOW and only push so far. You want to gain it's trust not increase the distrust by pushing too fast or hard. Once your pet is comfortable with this the ultimate test is being able to trim its toenails by yourself. It sounds crazy but if you can trim your pets toenails while it lays on its back or in your lap, you have reached the ultimate sign of trust and bonding. But it is important that 2 things never happen. 1) You become nervous or agitated. If you are nervous, you pet will feel that and think something bad is going to happen. 2) It should hurt. If the nails don't need trimming but to gain your pets trust, use a nail file to start with. It you cut the quick and it bleeds, you pet isn't likely to trust you again for a while.
As a veterinary nurse I am called upon to do treatments and procedures on animals that the owner just can't bring themselves to do. Ear cleaning, nail trims, anal gland expression, etc. This is because of 2 reasons. Either the owner has never been taught the proper way to do it while developing a trusting bond with their pet or the owner is afraid of breaking the trust they have by doing something the pet isn't comfortable with.
If you are going to work with your pet on set it requires that trusting bond. You will at some point have to ask your pet to do something that it is not comfortable with and it has to trust you that it will be okay, it won't hurt, and you will reward it tremendously in the end. Usually with a treat, but always with praise and admiration.
Most of the best studio animals spend a great deal of time with their owners/trainers. The owners don't leave for work all day and then come home to them and watch TV or get on the computer. I am not saying you have to be jobless. The best situation is you have a job where you can take your pet to work with you or you work from home. If that is just not possible, you must be willing to make the time and use it to work with your pet. You are working with your pet and developing a bond every time you take it for a walk and ask it to sit, circle, or lay down in the middle of the beach or park. Massage it every commercial break or ask it to hump your leg or tap your hand. When I had days free and worked the swing shift it was much better for my pets. I could be home more often during the fun hours and I was fortunate enough to be able to bring Petal to work with me so we could have dinner and breaks together. My favorite actress, again is Maggie. She spends virtually 24 hours a day with her owner. They had and immediate bond upon meeting because she was adopted from a shelter. She is a service animal so she can go many places with her owner and be exposed to many different situations. The two of them are adorable together and Maggie will try anything to be with her owner. She rides horses, paddleboards, rides skateboards, pushes shopping carts, agility, and has learned a numerous amount of tricks for set. Everywhere they go Maggie shows off her skills making her use to doing her tricks in multiple types of environments and situations. The bond and trust they have together is amazing. Making Maggie an amazing animal actress. Petal has most of these qualities but isn't as athletic as Maggie. But then again, I am not as athletic as Maggie's owner either.
Developing that bond with your pet is an important part of not just animal acting but in the satisfaction of pet ownership for many activities such as agility, nosework, hiking, surfing, trick training for friends and family, and even just hanging around the house. It is possible with even the most nervous pet. It just takes time and patience and again: Don't push to hard or to fast but push them just to their limits not past them. And you will be amazed at the bond you will develop and the trust the you will have earned.
A good example I use is that your pet has to be willing to lay on its back, relaxed, while you hold it or massage it on the floor. That position is considered total submission. Your pet is submitting to you. And if it is relaxed while you do it, it is leaving itself vulnerable but trusting that you would not let anything bad happen. Because lying on their back they are in no position to defend themselves or to be able to quickly retreat. This sometimes takes some bonding sessions and sometimes it happens naturally. If it requires some sessions, GO SLOW and only push so far. You want to gain it's trust not increase the distrust by pushing too fast or hard. Once your pet is comfortable with this the ultimate test is being able to trim its toenails by yourself. It sounds crazy but if you can trim your pets toenails while it lays on its back or in your lap, you have reached the ultimate sign of trust and bonding. But it is important that 2 things never happen. 1) You become nervous or agitated. If you are nervous, you pet will feel that and think something bad is going to happen. 2) It should hurt. If the nails don't need trimming but to gain your pets trust, use a nail file to start with. It you cut the quick and it bleeds, you pet isn't likely to trust you again for a while.
As a veterinary nurse I am called upon to do treatments and procedures on animals that the owner just can't bring themselves to do. Ear cleaning, nail trims, anal gland expression, etc. This is because of 2 reasons. Either the owner has never been taught the proper way to do it while developing a trusting bond with their pet or the owner is afraid of breaking the trust they have by doing something the pet isn't comfortable with.
If you are going to work with your pet on set it requires that trusting bond. You will at some point have to ask your pet to do something that it is not comfortable with and it has to trust you that it will be okay, it won't hurt, and you will reward it tremendously in the end. Usually with a treat, but always with praise and admiration.
Most of the best studio animals spend a great deal of time with their owners/trainers. The owners don't leave for work all day and then come home to them and watch TV or get on the computer. I am not saying you have to be jobless. The best situation is you have a job where you can take your pet to work with you or you work from home. If that is just not possible, you must be willing to make the time and use it to work with your pet. You are working with your pet and developing a bond every time you take it for a walk and ask it to sit, circle, or lay down in the middle of the beach or park. Massage it every commercial break or ask it to hump your leg or tap your hand. When I had days free and worked the swing shift it was much better for my pets. I could be home more often during the fun hours and I was fortunate enough to be able to bring Petal to work with me so we could have dinner and breaks together. My favorite actress, again is Maggie. She spends virtually 24 hours a day with her owner. They had and immediate bond upon meeting because she was adopted from a shelter. She is a service animal so she can go many places with her owner and be exposed to many different situations. The two of them are adorable together and Maggie will try anything to be with her owner. She rides horses, paddleboards, rides skateboards, pushes shopping carts, agility, and has learned a numerous amount of tricks for set. Everywhere they go Maggie shows off her skills making her use to doing her tricks in multiple types of environments and situations. The bond and trust they have together is amazing. Making Maggie an amazing animal actress. Petal has most of these qualities but isn't as athletic as Maggie. But then again, I am not as athletic as Maggie's owner either.
Developing that bond with your pet is an important part of not just animal acting but in the satisfaction of pet ownership for many activities such as agility, nosework, hiking, surfing, trick training for friends and family, and even just hanging around the house. It is possible with even the most nervous pet. It just takes time and patience and again: Don't push to hard or to fast but push them just to their limits not past them. And you will be amazed at the bond you will develop and the trust the you will have earned.
Wednesday, October 1, 2014
Things I Learned as a Studio Trainer Part VI: Working with Distractions
In your living room everything is going great. You can get your pet to work at a reasonable distance and it's learning all kinds of new tricks. But at home there are no distractions. When you bring your pet to the park or on set with workers, noisy lights, and moving equipment, it shuts down and either won't move or just wants to run to you and be near. It doesn't know how to handle distractions.
Agility training will help because there are dogs and people everywhere. I also take my pets to shopping plazas and ask them to perform for the people in stores, near fountains, and just noisy busy area in general. Training in a room with several other pets and trainers can be very rewarding. It requires both you as the trainer and your pet to be able to work with distractions. The boardwalk at the beach or a busy park can be a nice challenge. Never train at a dog park with treats as that is too big of a distraction as all the dogs run towards you for food and a possible fight ensues. You can ask convalescent or assisted living facilities if your pet can perform for their residents. That is great for training your pet and entertainment for folks.
Noise is the biggest issue for pets on set. Things roar, bang, and strobe. Actors shout and pound things. Cameras are on rails that roll and screech. Phones ring and knocking are done loudly. All this can be very frightening and many animals that are calm otherwise are freaks on set. The more distractions you and your pet work with the better prepared you will be.
Just a tip: If your pet does become frightened or nervous, don't get nervous with it. Just calming speak to it. Pet or stroke it gently to reassure it and NEVER pick it up or Hug it. That only justifies its fear and will make your battle worse. Work them through it reassuringly.
I did a scene with 8 other dogs once. Dogs were running, barking, jumping, etc., etc., and my dog had to run specifically through the middle of them all. She also has had a scene with a high school band was playing and marching during it. She had to run with a soccer team who were kicking a ball back and forth and she had to follow one player specifically and not be afraid of a ball coming by her that was much the same size as her. But my favorite was the guy in a giant bear costume that raised up tall and growled while she ate out of a bag of Doritos.
So doing tricks in your living room isn't usually going to get your pet many parts. But get them to perform for a crowd and you may have a chance.
Part VII: The Bond it Requires.
Agility training will help because there are dogs and people everywhere. I also take my pets to shopping plazas and ask them to perform for the people in stores, near fountains, and just noisy busy area in general. Training in a room with several other pets and trainers can be very rewarding. It requires both you as the trainer and your pet to be able to work with distractions. The boardwalk at the beach or a busy park can be a nice challenge. Never train at a dog park with treats as that is too big of a distraction as all the dogs run towards you for food and a possible fight ensues. You can ask convalescent or assisted living facilities if your pet can perform for their residents. That is great for training your pet and entertainment for folks.
Noise is the biggest issue for pets on set. Things roar, bang, and strobe. Actors shout and pound things. Cameras are on rails that roll and screech. Phones ring and knocking are done loudly. All this can be very frightening and many animals that are calm otherwise are freaks on set. The more distractions you and your pet work with the better prepared you will be.
Just a tip: If your pet does become frightened or nervous, don't get nervous with it. Just calming speak to it. Pet or stroke it gently to reassure it and NEVER pick it up or Hug it. That only justifies its fear and will make your battle worse. Work them through it reassuringly.
I did a scene with 8 other dogs once. Dogs were running, barking, jumping, etc., etc., and my dog had to run specifically through the middle of them all. She also has had a scene with a high school band was playing and marching during it. She had to run with a soccer team who were kicking a ball back and forth and she had to follow one player specifically and not be afraid of a ball coming by her that was much the same size as her. But my favorite was the guy in a giant bear costume that raised up tall and growled while she ate out of a bag of Doritos.
So doing tricks in your living room isn't usually going to get your pet many parts. But get them to perform for a crowd and you may have a chance.
Part VII: The Bond it Requires.
Monday, September 22, 2014
Things I have Learned as a Studio Trainer Part V: Not Every Pet is Going to be a Star
Some pets
have the look but cannot act. I’ve worked with some great animal actors but
they just didn’t have the look the director wanted. I also worked with some
great lookers but getting them to perform was a whole another story. Unfortunately
not all pets are going to become great animal actors.
“Petal”,
fortunately enough, has a very unique look. But she has been turned down by
several directors because it isn’t the right look. She is too small for any
full shots of the actors that include her. You can’t see her in a full screen
shot. She is also to “scrappy” looking for some directors. She will never play
the pampered well groomed pooch.
It is
important that in most instances that the director be able to see the eyes of
your pet clearly and that they emote. This sounds ridiculous but it’s true.
Black faced dogs are rarely seen on camera. Newfoundlands seem to be an exception
to the rule. It is difficult to see the eyes on black faced dogs and also
difficult for black dogs to make a nice visual appearance. Dogs with hair in
their eyes are rarely chosen unless the scene specifically calls for that. So most
hairy dogs have their face trimmed around the eyes or have the hair up in a ponytail
or hair clip to pull it off the face. The eyes have to draw the audience in.
Some of the animal actors just don’t have what it takes when it comes to their
eyes.
If you have
a unique looking dog or at least a dog not already over used it can be of some
benefit. No director wants to use a collie and have the audience think “Lassie”
instead of the character it is portraying or the product being promoted. Yet some directors want a recognizable look.
After “Legally Blonde” & “Beverly Hills Chihuahua”, the call for blonde Chihuahuas
went through the roof. And for a while French and English Bulldogs were all the
rage in photo shoots.
The disadvantage
to a single looking uniqueness is that the dog must be a great performer as
well as a great actor. As in a previous blog, there were practically 101 Dalmatians
used to film that movie. And a lot of makeups to make them all look like the
same dog. Not many other dogs look like little “Petal”.
Most animal
actors must also be athletic. They must be able to climb and jump. I highly recommend
agility training for any animal actor. It helps them become brave and strong, even
the tiniest dog. They don’t have to be fast and fabulous, just willing to do
it. Going through tunnels and shoots, jumping jumps, walking on ledges and
platforms are common in animal scenes. There are some great animal actors out
there but if the director has to shut down production for the day because the
pet is tired, scared, or just not willing to work; you probably won’t be
getting calls again.
My Jack
Russell Terrier was in very high demand because he was friendly and could be on
set with other dogs. But he hated it. He would wine and pout in between takes
and drive other studio trainers crazy.
He didn’t like to work off leash but was beautiful on leash. He did
several jobs and was well paid for each one. I would promise him it was the
last, but then the call would come and the money was good I would try to prep
him better for the wait and hope he would eventually like it. You’ve probably
seen him. He is finally retired.
I also rescued
a rat terrier that was a fabulous actress. She was very athletic and willing to
do all kinds of stunts and tricks. She was personable but when you looked at
her stills or video, she just didn’t draw you in. Nobody would hire her. She
was even turned down for several free jobs.
Some breeds
of dogs are just stereo typed and you won’t get the parts you want. Most
directors won’t hire pit bulls or Dobermans unless they are filming a violence
scene. It is just a fact. Others are in great demand because there aren’t many
well trained ones available. If you can train a red Dachshund or a Dalmatian you
will be flooded with calls. But they are difficult to train.
You take
pictures and home video of your dog and everyone things they are stunning. When
you walk your pet people stop you to ask about it. You have a dog or cat that
people want to pet or a lizard that is stunning when it sits on a rock, or a
bird on a perch that entertains your family and friends. Then you just may have
an animal actor. But will they do it away from home and with a million distractions?
Part VI:
Working with Distractions
Saturday, September 13, 2014
Things I Learned as a Studio Trainer IV: Helpful Hints
Now you want to try some training. Unless your pet has a really solid come and stay command, it is essential that you put a leash on for training. Even if your pet doesn't run away you need to be able to lead them in the direction needed for certain behaviors.
Beginner marks are easy. My favorite is a book that I cover in duct tape of nay color. I often use green or brown so I can use it in tall grass or leaves if needed on set sometimes. Low apple crates used commonly on set in multiple studio situations are used by professionals. But these are pricey. books work just as well. Then as you progress you can get a smaller and thinner book. The first mark needs to be big enough and thick enough that your pet can get their front feet on it comfortably and sit down or lay down while their feet remain in place. Some other worthwhile marks are card board coasters from bars or restaurants. Mouse pads work well too and you can cut them down to size as the pet progresses. Anything that slides when your pet steps on it is a horrible choice and will just discourage it from that behavior. Blocks of wood, bricks, etc are all good options to start with.
Another helpful tool is a target stick. They can be elaborate or not. I use a wooden dowel about 4 feet long but 6 foot is really the minimum you should use especially with a larger dog. A dental chew slides over one end with a finishing nail in the end to hold the treat for paying. A tennis ball is placed on the other end for following with just her eyes or her whole body. The target stick is also used to encourage jumping straight up or for teaching your pet to sit up from a distance. I have seen retractable target sticks on line or in some pet shops. The problem I found with these is they are rarely long enough or stable enough when fully extended. PVC pipe is commonly used with a fork or spork attached to one end and a hole cut in a tennis ball for the other end. I have seen a home made telescoping pvc pipe target stick made by using a smaller size that fits inside.
A long lead is essential when teaching distance and pace. But if you are working with a reptile or small pet, the standard long leads are often too big and heavy. Laundry cord or small cord rope works well with a clip attached. I have had to resort to 20lb fishing line for one shoot with some not so well trained animals.
Training treats need to be soft and easily eaten. No director wants crumbs or chewing on set. And dog food or standard dog or cat treats are often not enough motivation to get your pet to perform for several hours on set Plus they can be very filling and fattening when giving many during one session. One of my favorites is the natural balance logs cut into very small bites. I can give two if I want a big reward and it is essentially dog food that taste like sausage. Cheese, chicken, hot dogs, and such have all been resorted to at times. I once brought cooked salmon to use as a special pay treat. But by the end of the day Petal smelled like a dead fish and no one wanted to be around her. I also keep a jar of peanut butter and chicken baby food for the times I need to have a pet lick on something for a while.
So now that you have some helpful hints, let the training begin. And remember that it is important that both you and your dog are enjoying yourselves. If not, give up the acting ideal and try another dog sport or activity.
Part V: Not Every Pet is Going to be a Great Animal Actor.
Beginner marks are easy. My favorite is a book that I cover in duct tape of nay color. I often use green or brown so I can use it in tall grass or leaves if needed on set sometimes. Low apple crates used commonly on set in multiple studio situations are used by professionals. But these are pricey. books work just as well. Then as you progress you can get a smaller and thinner book. The first mark needs to be big enough and thick enough that your pet can get their front feet on it comfortably and sit down or lay down while their feet remain in place. Some other worthwhile marks are card board coasters from bars or restaurants. Mouse pads work well too and you can cut them down to size as the pet progresses. Anything that slides when your pet steps on it is a horrible choice and will just discourage it from that behavior. Blocks of wood, bricks, etc are all good options to start with.
Another helpful tool is a target stick. They can be elaborate or not. I use a wooden dowel about 4 feet long but 6 foot is really the minimum you should use especially with a larger dog. A dental chew slides over one end with a finishing nail in the end to hold the treat for paying. A tennis ball is placed on the other end for following with just her eyes or her whole body. The target stick is also used to encourage jumping straight up or for teaching your pet to sit up from a distance. I have seen retractable target sticks on line or in some pet shops. The problem I found with these is they are rarely long enough or stable enough when fully extended. PVC pipe is commonly used with a fork or spork attached to one end and a hole cut in a tennis ball for the other end. I have seen a home made telescoping pvc pipe target stick made by using a smaller size that fits inside.
A long lead is essential when teaching distance and pace. But if you are working with a reptile or small pet, the standard long leads are often too big and heavy. Laundry cord or small cord rope works well with a clip attached. I have had to resort to 20lb fishing line for one shoot with some not so well trained animals.
Training treats need to be soft and easily eaten. No director wants crumbs or chewing on set. And dog food or standard dog or cat treats are often not enough motivation to get your pet to perform for several hours on set Plus they can be very filling and fattening when giving many during one session. One of my favorites is the natural balance logs cut into very small bites. I can give two if I want a big reward and it is essentially dog food that taste like sausage. Cheese, chicken, hot dogs, and such have all been resorted to at times. I once brought cooked salmon to use as a special pay treat. But by the end of the day Petal smelled like a dead fish and no one wanted to be around her. I also keep a jar of peanut butter and chicken baby food for the times I need to have a pet lick on something for a while.
So now that you have some helpful hints, let the training begin. And remember that it is important that both you and your dog are enjoying yourselves. If not, give up the acting ideal and try another dog sport or activity.
Part V: Not Every Pet is Going to be a Great Animal Actor.
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